70th Anniversary Edition
SUPPLEMENT TO
The Washington County Register
Friday, Sept. 16, 1938
Part 1 of 3
Foreword -- A Brief History of the Washington County Register -- Washington County from 1850 to 1938 -- Early State History of the Discovery of Kansas -- Washington County -1938 -- Famous Route of the Pony Express -- Cottonwood Station -- Fort Leavenworth Military Road -- Biographies of Pioneers -- Congratulatory Letters -- Jane Timmis Overbury - 104 -- Mr. and Mrs. James Creighton
This Seventieth Anniversary edition of the Washington County Register, published to do honor to those noble men and women, the pioneers, who made possible the growth of Washington County and Washington City, also commemorates the seventy years of service to the community and county by the Washington County Register.
Preparing this seventieth anniversary edition has proven to us the possibility and the need of collecting individual data while it may be had, and getting it on paper for future posterity. We have garnered a wealth of interesting material both pictures and stories that we would liked to have included in this issue but we lack space, money and time. We look forward to the time when, with your assistance, we can produce a 500-page history of Washington county.
Nor is it too much to hope that a museum of some nature may in the near future develop wherein many relics dear to individuals and to the county may be preserved in glass cases, where at the same time their educational value may be extended to the growing children and particular county pride and interest be created among the citizens of the county.
In preserving some account of that sturdy race of men and women who paved the way for the developm.ent of Washington County, we have herein tried to include the names of all who were within the confines of the county in the early days.
We have recorded their names with other matters of interest too valuable to be lost. Most of the pioneers have passed away and with many of them have vanished the scenes in which they individually participated.
Too, with the destruction of the court house in 1869, all official records were burned prior to that date. This unfortunate loss makes it difficult and in some cases impossible to procure earliest official data. However, individual forces have kept many records and the files of the Washington County Register from 1869 become a weekly memoir.
In preparing this edition, we have also included a Who's Who among the business men of our county. As far as possible every business and professional man in the county has been included except for some few who preferred not to be included.
To mention the names of the many men and women who assisted us in preparation of this issue, both with pictures and information, would be an endless task, but we can only say that their assistance is appreciated and it is only by their help that this issue was made possible.
It is our hope that this copy will be retained throughout the years for its historical and pictorial value.
MARGARET C. BARLEY, Editor.
A Brief History of The Washington County Register
Volume I, Number 1, of the Western Observer, the first newspaper in Washington county, was published on March 25, 1869 in the stockade building that served as the first print shop, the first school building, the first court house, the first church, and general all purpose building. Mark J. Kelley was the editor.
The Old Stockade
A reproduction of the first page of the first issue is shown on the opposite page. One of our choicest possessions is the complete copy of the first year’s publication, that was carefully preserved by a subscriber, Mrs. E. Wertman.
The first Western Observer was a four column sheet, 9 by 14 inches in size, all hand set, with four pages. The present Register is a seven column page, 17-1/2 by 22-1/2 inches in size, actually about four times as much news material to the page, and the number of pages is usually ten or twelve, often sixteen and sometimes twenty. Observe the old fashioned type on the page although it was probably the last word in typographical effect at that time.
The editor, M. J. Kelley, an alert ambitious Easterner, accepting his western home, and being enthusiastic about the new town, put his thoughts on the pages of the Western Observer which were sent in great numbers throughout the East. It is said that this publication was in a great measure responsible for securing the high class of men and women who sought homes in Washington County.
The Washington County Register now in its seventieth year has been published under many different titles and edited by even a greater number of men. This grown-up child is the direct descendent of that first publication known as The Western Observer, and over the years has been a reliable exponent of the standing and progress of the city and county of Washington.
The coming of a newspaper is an important event to any town but the advent of that little 9x14 sheet in the frontier town of Washington has been generally considered as the turning point in the history of Washington county, for, since that publication on March 11, 1869 the county has never been without a paper to foster its growth and prosperity. And, further, throughout all these 70 years the paper has held that enviable distinction that never an issue has been missed nor has one ever been printed on a half-sheet.
This first newspaper in Washington County, whose first issue was March 11, 1869 was published by Mart J. Kelley, an impartial and very fair man, who came to this county under the influence of David E. Ballard. Though using a hand press with his shop in the old stockade courthouse, and issuing a sheet measuring 9 inches by 14 inches, this first editor, generously devoting the columns of his paper to the advertisements of the county, made his pages so influential that they attracted many substantial persons, and since the Western Observer found its way to all parts of the East, it was the means of settling a large portion of this county and directly responsible for many of the best settlers.
On May 21, 1870 the paper was sold to George W. Shriner and James F. Tallman, who changed its name to The Magnet.
On the 25th of August of the same year, Mark J. Kelley and J. O. Young founded the Washington Republican, and for about a month published a paper a day—the first daily in the county.
On January 9, 1871 Mr. Tallman, having retired, J. O. Young purchased The Magnet from George W. Shriner and the interest of M. J. Kelley in the Republican and consolidated the two papers, retaining the name, Washington Republican.
Early in the winter of 1871 John I. Tallman bought a half-interest in the paper, which on November 2, 1871, he sold to W. P. Day, who, on February 17, 1872, sold it to J. O. Young. On July 25, of the same year J. C. Martin and Perrine Stultz bought a half-interest in the Republican. Later Mr. Martin bought the interest of Mr. Stultz and on January 30, 1874 sold out to John Guinn.
E. N. Emmons who had been associated with Mr. Martin from April 8, 1873 to September 12, of the same year, bought the Republican on June 19, 1874, from Mr. Guinn, and on July 14 enlarged the paper to seven-column paper.
October 6, 1876, J. B. Besack bought the Emmons interest, and enlarged it to an eight column paper. He in turn sold to Ed Knowles. In 1882 Mr. Knowles sold out to H. C. Robinson, who subsequently took L. J. Sprengle as a partner and to whom he later sold his entire interest.
The Republican then passed to L. A. Palmer, who moved the plant to its present home, 101 West 3rd street, and later sold to C. E. Ingalls, who in 1905 also bought the Washington County Register, which had been established by Messrs. Williamson and Clark in 1880. Mr. Ingalls consolidated the two as the Republican-Register.
In February of the year 1915 Paul K. Cowgill took over the management and a year later J. H. Barley became the editor. In 1926 the Palladium was purchased from O. L. Clark and Mary A. Clark and the name of the combined papers became The Washington County Register. In October, 1927, a corporation was formed, known as The Washington County Publishing Company, which company has since published the paper, with Mrs. Margaret C. Barley, the present editor, purchasing the plant and taking over the management on July 1, 1933.
Thus it is with no little pride that we look back over the years of the Register’s publication and find chronicled births, marriages and deaths as well as the deeds of unsung men and women whose daily lives were their benediction. The breath comes a little faster and the pulse beats a little stronger for having known, walked with and followed in the wake of those noble men and women who now are and those who have gone before.
The Register—which has been the speaking voice of the county these seventy years, has kept a watchful eye on former residents and has continued to have an interest in the boys and girls of the county who have moved to other localities. It rejoices that so many have made good. It is gratifying to know that so great a number of these people within the county or wherever they have made their home have received especial honors in their different kinds of work. Whether that person had his start here when he was born or just some assistance during his sojourn in Washington county we like to attribute a bit of the credit of his success to the inspiration received and the encouragement extended by some one or ones within this county.
And—the county paper entering the various homes each week has been a definite medium in bringing together and cementing the friendships, progress and well being of the community and county—the unstinted service of which paper has at no time been reckoned. In the words of historian J. G. Ellenbecker of Marysville the whole truth is told, "A newspaper is the greatest common friend of a community. No other person or institution does so much good, gratis." The Register Is Many Newspapers
Many newspapers in Washington County have been consolidated into the Washington County Register of the present day. The name has been changed several times. Following is a concise history of the newspapers of Washington, other than the Register.
The Washington County Register, founded in 1880 by Williamson & Clarke. The Daily Register, founded 1882 by Clarke & Clarke, discontinued the same year. Washington Post founded by Chas. F. Barrett in 1883. Washington Daily Post founded 1886 by Mr. Barrett, issued during County Fair.
Washington Daily Post founded 1887 by Mr. Barrett; discontinued same year; the Post consolidated with the Register in 1895 and ran as the Post-Register, with J. T. Hole and James Pontuis, editors and publishers. The Watchman, founded 1896 by the Watchman Publishing Company, consolidated in 1898 with the Post-Register; in 1902 the name of the Post-Register changed to the Washington Register, J. A. Totten, editor and publisher, and ran under that name until its consolidation with the Repudlican. The Mahaska Leader was purchased from A. Q. Miller in 1917. The First Issue Contained Many Interesting Items
Volume I, Number 1, of the Western Observer, contained many interesting items. On page four was printed the delinquent tax list for 1868. The list contained the names of Isam Brown, Horace Beamus, Jesse W. Bolt, John Barstow, Louise Ballard, Thomas Clevenger and a great many others. Fully half of the property listed was put in as owner unknown. J. B. Snider was treasurer.
A notice of the Washington township Republican convention listed the following nominations. For Justices of the peace, S. S. Penwell and August Saedeker. For Township Trustee, Frank Lane. Township treasurer, Mat Oswald. Township Clerk, G. T. Thompson. For constables, Lyle Pasko and Andrew Oswald.
Advertisement were included from Dr. Chas. Williamson, Attorney James F. Tallman, Shriner & Tallman real estate, Hoskins of Waterville, Rockefeller’s furniture, Shriner & Tallman Dry Goods, S. A. Williamson drug store, H. Robbins stone mason, Rockefeller & Collins groceries, F. Peters, Chas. Fleiner and R. W. Sholes of Waterville and attorney John W. Williams of Junction City.
A short item thanking the citizens of Washington county for their support is found on page four. The Western Observer started out with a bona-fide paid up circulation of seven hundred. SUNSETA ball of flame that lights throughout the skies
And sets on fire all nature; then it dies
And leaves such wonderous colorings of gold
And rose and violet. These gently fold
Each one into the other; then they fade
And over all night draws a deep blue shade.
-- R. CAROLE RICKERT(This description by a local girl is the more beautiful since this poetess has never seen the light of day.)
WASHINGTON COUNTYWashington County From 1850 to 1938
Written in 1876
EDITOR’S NOTE: The following history was written by Dr. Charles Williamson and was published in the Washington Weekly Republican on Friday, July 14, 1876. It is reprinted here and should be an authentic history of the county as it was written by a pioneer of the county shortly after the events occurred.
The history of Kansas, in the last twenty years, of which Washington county is a part, you are all familiar with, and the privations and struggles of its early settlers, in 1856. Whilst the men were under arms to protect their lives and property, our families were often exposed to the inclemency of the elements, hid in the timber or the grass to protect them from insult and from the ruffians that surrounded them. But this theme belongs to the past. And it is enough for us today that the glorious commonwealth was saved to freedom and a glorious future. At Philadelphia, today, in the Kansas building, the agricultural products of our State are unexcelled; the pride of the State and nation.
Washington county, in the northern tier of counties in the State, was organized in 1860, and named in honor of the first President of the United States. It contains 900 square miles, two per cent of which is timber; eight per cent bottom land, the rest upland prairie. For fertility of soil and yield of crops, healthfulness of climate, and good water, it is unsurpassed in the State. It has eight principal streams, whose banks are lined with timber, such as oak, walnut, hickory, elm, cottonwood, ash, locust and box-elder. Also plenty of wild fruits such as plums, strawberries, grapes, raspberries, mulberries and gooseberries. There are five different kinds of native grasses. The tame, such as timothy, clover, blue grass, and alfalfa, are successfully grown. The names of the streams are the Republican, Little Blue, Mill creek, alias south fork of Little Blue, alias Snake creek, Peach creek, alias Pete’s creek, first named after W. Petes, an early settler. Parson creek was named after W. Parson, who settled at Clifton, on section 36, in 1859; Riddle creek, after Mr. Riddle, its oldest settler; Spring, alias Devil named by W. Thomas, who was detained by rain and freshets on its banks during the first settlement is now changed to Spring by the common consent of its inhabitants; Coon creek and Joy creek were named after the first settlers. The streams abound in fish. There is undeveloped water power in the streams of this county, sufficient to run half of the manufacturing interests of the state. One of the first settlements made in this county was by James McNulty and Ostrander, in 1857. James McNulty was hunting stray mules that had wandered from a train. When he came in sight of Mill creek, he selected the same as his future home. Mr. Rufus Darby came to Hardens, now called Ballard’s Falls, in 1858; the Fosters and Mr. Blocker settled on Mill creek, the same year, G. H. Hollenberg came into Hanover township in 1857, on the Fort Kearney road. In Little Blue Mr. Mercer settled, in 1858 Mr. Wm. Hemphill, John Bastow, the same year. In Washington township, E. B. Cook, in 1859; Jesse R. Hallowell, Samuel Lynd, in 1860. S. F. Snyder and sons settled on Mill creek the same year. On Coon creek in Lincoln township, Mr. Brown and Walker were the first, following them were Mr. Smith, Thos. Marshal, McCandless and Wm. Allison; in Strawberry, John Myers, and Mr. Melfelt moved in first; on Peach creek in Clifton township in 1859 there were Geo. Funnell and Mr. Fox; on Parson creek in 1859 came Mr. Bowmaker, Mr. Eslinger, Mr. Kinsley and GeBarr; in Hollenberg, the first was Joel Snyder in 1859; in Union township, Joe Enoch and later W. G. Welch, a native of Yorkshire, England, an energetic farmer who celebrated a few days since his 43rd wedding day. There were present children and grandchildren, all told, fifty persons. There are many privations to undergo in an early day. Caves or cabins were few and far between, and in one instance in 1858, a young man was lost between the head waters of Mill creek and the Republican. He was lost for several days and when found was half demented and wasted to a skeleton.
The majority of the early settlers came here with but little means; their covered wagons contained their household goods and effects. Lumber was not to be obtained so they dug a cave in the ground, covering the same with grass and sod. In a few hours he moved in and became a squatter. He then had from fifty to seventy-five miles to travel, and that often in the dead of the winter, to the land office to secure his homestead or pre-emption papers. Many of the women that occupied these caves were ladies of education and refinement who had left their homes in the East, sundering all the ties that bound them to the old homestead with all its childhood memories and pleasant associations, to secure in the far West a home for themselves in their declining years, and a brighter future for their children. Having burned some native gypsum on a brush pile, they whitewashed the sides of their caves. With straw and flowers from the prairies and timber they made rustic frames and wreaths to adorn their homes. The buffalo robe occupied an important place in the household as bed and blanket. The table was furnished with buffalo meat, venison, antelope and wild turkey. Trapping the otter and beaver during the winter months, for beaver dams were plenty on all the creeks, the settler managed to obtain means sufficient to satisfy his humble wants. His latch string was always out; his hospitality was unlimited; a vacant seat by his fire and table were ever ready for his friends, and the word stranger was synonymous with friend. Having portrayed one phase of squatter’s life, there is yet another; occasionally the first crop being on fresh ground, it would be cut short. Often without vegetables in the winter, and no money to buy any, they suffered from scurvy and a scarcity of bread stuff. In one instance I was traveling with Mr. Raub, of Ash creek, in February, 1868. At sundown it commenced storming; we came to a solitary cabin and asked permission to stay in the house that night. I saw that he hesitated. I still urged him to let us stay. Finally with tears in his eyes, he said, "You are welcome, but we have nothing to eat. For three days I have traveled to get a little meal. I have been to the Republican and back today -- 25 miles—and you see my sack is still empty." We went with him into the house, dividing our provisions with him. When his hunger was appeased, and his cheerful fire had warmed him, and made him communicative, he told us his story. He had emigrated from Wisconsin, with a family of six children. He was an intelligent, educated and industrious man. He had expended all his means and could get no employment and was destitute of food and sufficient clothing for the winter. His daughter, a girl 15 years of age, as I could see, had nothing to wear but an old dress body with a piece of an old tattered government blanket attached to it for a skirt. He said, "I have been, I hope, a Christian for many years, but this evening it was almost in my heart to say that God had forsaken me, but I will never doubt his Providence again." When I left him in the morning I told him we would return in two days, and to be of good cheer. At Junction City I went to Mr. Houston, receiver of the land office, and told him of this family’s destitution. Through his solicitation amongst the business men of the city, and the kindness of the ladies, our wagon was loaded with provisions and clothing for all the family, and a promise to obtain the necessary grain for his spring planting. To Mr. Raub, late of Ash creek, a poor man himself, must be given the credit of collecting the aid about the city. It was still very cold, and our team was thin, and to haul these goods back we had to walk twenty miles ourselves. The news had gone in advance of us, and we found him waiting to put up our horses, and a cheering fire in the house, ready for our reception. As I watched the happy and grateful faces of that family, I forgot I was tired. You know our old friend, Mr. Raub with his Grecian outline of face, was never a beauty, but as I watched him administering to the wants of this family that night, with his words of cheer, his generous soul and warm sympathies shining in his face, I must admit that his plain face, in the future, will ever look handsome to me. We spent a pleasant night with our host. Today he is a well-to-do farmer and his hand is ever open to the poor. . . .strate that in the development of our county, although all the names are too numerous to mention, each individual and year acts it integral part of the drama of history. The old settler is neither old fogy nor fossil, for what is true of the honeybee is true of society, that drones never swarm. The wide awake, energetic and industrious live American pushed to the West, subduing nature, rearing empires to liberty and free thought and giving new life and impulse to American civilization. And this was not the only trial; the settlers were entirely at the mercy of the Indians who were close to them on the West. The young men had all left and gone into the army, and they might be attacked at any time. In 1863, a band of Sioux, Cheyennes and Arapahoes, armed with bows, arrows, spears and rawhide shields were on their way to the Otoe village on a war expedition. The first place they struck was Mr. Furgeson’s afterwards Mr. Canfields, one of the oldest settlers on the creek, plundering the house and insulting the women. Traveling down Mill creek in the vicinity of Mr. Wertman’s, the Indians took prisoner Rufus Darby. With one on each side of him, armed with spears, they took him down to Washington to the log house of Jesse R. Hallowell, where another band of Indians were plundering his house of bedding (they called it swapping). Leaving there they followed down Mill creek, plundering on their way G. M. Driskell of bedding and blankets. Rich Bond they corralled on the mound above John Bond’s barn. Andy Oswalt was also taken prisoner. After taking them a few miles down the creek they let them go. Many of the citizens took the alarm and started for Marysville in Marshall county. The citizens that were left then held a meeting in Washington at what is now called the Collins stable, the result of which was that Wm. Cummings and D. E. Ballard were appointed to reconnoitre the whereabouts of the Indians, and ascertain their number. Saddling their ponies, armed and equipped with rifles, revolvers and blankets, they started south. Night found them at Parson creek, hungry, tired and cold, but no Indians. By this time the boys found they had no matches. I suppose they rubbed two sticks together, but it wouldn’t work, so they hung up a blanket, shot into it and made it smoke, then raised the wind, took puff about, till they got a fire and got some supper. The next morning bright and early our scouts started south again, but still no Indians. But resting at noon they found what proved to be bituminous coal. Filling a blanket with the same, they returned home showing their treasures, which is now known by the name of the Clyde coal banks.
Still later in the fall of the same year, there were Indian troubles, and J. R. Hallowell, Mort Hallowell, and the women and settlers around, forted up in the Humes log house, in Washington, keeping guard over night. Just at sunrise a dark object was seen crawling up the ravine by the parsonage, some of them wanted to shoot but about that time Elijah Woolbert, sr., raised up, waved his broad brim hat, and shouted at the top of his voice, "Holloa, you wouldn’t shoot a native, would you?"
The following fall scouts brought word from the west, that the Indians were attacking the settlements. The citizens of Mill creek with their cattle, oxen and wagons, pushed to Washington, camping on the high land, on what is known as the George Shriner farm, south of Washington. That night might be heard the lowing of cattle, the lamentation of the women and children, the bleating of the sheep, for they were leaving with their chickens and all their household goods. Some pushed on the next day to Harden’s Ford, returning home in a few weeks, as the excitement subsided.
The first wheat raised in this county was in the year 1861 by Samuel Lynd, M. C. Driskell and E. Woolbert. At that time there were two cradles in the county to harvest the same, and they took turn about until they finished. The entire crop of small grain could have been bought for $200. Now compare that with your crop last year, as furnished by the Kansas report which estimated the value of all small grain raised in Washington county in 1875 at $576,089.
The first officers in Washington county were D. E. Ballard, clerk and recorder, W. Langsdale, sheriff, M. G. Driskell, treasurer, M. Mercer, assessor, Rufus Darby, probate judge, and as such he officiated at the first wedding in the county, the marriage of a Mr. Foster. The first territorial legislator was George G. Pierce. The first after its organization, D. E. Ballard. The first commissioner’s meeting was held on the prairie, and without any remuneration. The first school in Washington county was taught in Washington in 1861, by Agnes Hallowell, now Mrs. P. Darby. The first stove was bought with 15 cent corn, the neighbors subscribing the corn, the same was delivered by E. B. Cook, at Hollenberg ranch. Now there are 108 organized school districts, and 86 school houses. The value of school buildings, furniture and apparatus in 1875, was $75,970. The first preachers that visited this county were Elder Hartford and Elder Robertson of the Episcopal Methodist church. On their first advent to Washington, they called at a house about sundown, to stay all night. The men in the house thought it was some of the boys playing a practical joke on them, so they halloed back some western adjectives. That alarmed our preachers, and they left, starting down Mill creek. By this time, the proprietor came home and told the boys their mistake. They started out forthwith across the fields to call them back or head them off, but this had the effect of scaring the preachers worse, thinking robbers were after them. They rode a few miles out on the prairie, unsaddled their horses and laid down to sleep supperless. In the morning they started again, and soon came in sight of M. G. Driskell’s. After breakfast they went back to Washington, holding a meeting that evening in the log house on the John Penwell farm. This was Brother Hartford’s first sermon as a preacher, and the first religious services in Washington county. The next morning Elder Hartford, with a few biscuits in his pocket, started to his work on the Republican, but sundown found him lost and beyond settlements. Taking the prairie and his saddle bags for a bed that night, he took a fresh start again at early sunrise. After traveling some fifteen miles, he came to a solitary house, the site of which is now the city of Clay Center. From there he went to Little Mill creek, his home. This was in the year 1860.
Going to mill, market and postoffice was no small job in our early history. They traveled often from twenty to forty miles to Marysville or Table Rock, Nebr., and often in the dead of winter, facing the fiercest northwest snow storms, and homeward bound to feed their wife and little ones, they struggled on, cold, benumbed and bewildered. They have often sunk exhausted, and perished in sight of home to be found by their neighbors and buried, as was Wm. Phillips, of Hollenberg township, on Feb. 14, 1870. In 1862, ‘63, and ‘64 the farmers all lived on the creek, raising mostly corn and cattle, taking the corn in the fall to Fort Kearney, to market, a distance of 150 miles, selling their corn at from $1.50 to $3 a bushel. Recollect that was when freighting was in fashion, and any man could get rich that could start a toll bridge or ferry, or lay in a stock of whiskey, sardines or herrings, trade in foot sore stock, and start a ranch. Lawyers and doctors were scarce and not in fashion in those times, for the reason that they were too far off, and if they got mad or sick they usually got in good humor, got well or died before they could ride 30 miles for either. It is said of Northwestern Kansas, jestingly, that the climate is so healthy that somebody had to be killed to start a grave-yard. In Washington county, it was literally true. Three miles southeast of Washington, on the Mormon trail, a man by the name of Sigmun, was found by E. B. Cook and W. Way, murdered. Mr. Cook was on his way to the river. They had been with Wm. Hemphill, on the Republican river, near the bend, assisting Judge Adams, at Atchison, to build a ferry boat so as to make a more direct route of travel between the city of Atchison and Denver, feasting, while there, on buffalo soup and wild onions. Mr. Sigmun was stabbed in several places, and was apparently shot with his own gun. There had been a desperate struggle, the grass was beaten and trodden down for some distance around and covered with blood. Mr. Sigmun was a native of Ohio, and was looking up a claim, expecting to buy one. Mr. Way refused to take the body in the wagon. Some California emigrants then came along and buried him. The same day two bands of Indians passed through on the trail, hotly pressed by the settlers, from Wild Cat creek, where they had stolen horses. They stopped at the house of E. B. Cook, compelling his wife to give them food, and stealing her coffee pot and some blankets. At Camp creek, south of Washington, the settlers were so close to them that they left their horses and plunder, and scattered, one portion of them crossing the creek at Mr. Hemphill’s and the other at James McNulty’s. A citizen of this county was arrested on suspicion of the murder of Mr. Sigmun but was acquitted, and to this day his death remains a mystery.
Where the Mormon trail from Fort Laramie crosses Ash creek, three miles south of the city of Washington, is the favorite Mormon spring and camping ground of the Mormons on their way to Salt Lake. Close to the spring is a high rock of red sandstone. One the face of the rock was carved the names of many of the deluded victims of polygamy, and the date of their visit. Very recently, in breaking the prairie, some of their long bowie knives have been plowed up. Mr. Jackson, of Washington, has one in his possession now. But railroads have turned the tide of immigration and wanton boys and the elements have effaced the names, and all that is left is the heraldic sign of the plainsman and ox driver, a carved wagon wheel.
Mr. Fuller, of Hollenberg, lost a son killed by the Indians during one of their annual trips to Fort Kearney. It was a fashion in those early days to make an excursion west every fall to kill buffalo, and smoke and jerk meat sufficient for their families’ use during the winter. Such expeditions were often attended with great danger to life and property, being often corralled by the Indians. They would then, if in sufficient force, fight it out, but if scattered, it was every one for himself. Often leaving their wagons and contents, they would cut loose a horse from the wagon, jump astride and push for the settlements, returning in a short time with a larger force to gather up their plunder. But occasionally, as in the case of Mr. Tallman and Mr. Roberts, a young man from Greenbush, Fon do-Lac county, Wisconsin, they were killed and scalped by the Indians. Some of the citizens of Clifton township hearing the news, went out west, found their mutilated bodies, and brought them in and buried them on the land of Job Short, in Clifton township. Mr. Reuben Winklepleck, an old soldier of the 13th Kansas, and well known to the citizens of Monrovia, Atchison county, Kansas, and his eldest son were killed on a buffalo hunt. His son was shot standing up in the wagon. Mr. Winklepleck fought bravely killing several Indians before he sank in death, leaving a widow with a large family to mourn his loss.
Our historical incidents bring us up to about 1867, at which time the Central Branch railroad had pushed west as far as Centralia, and many of the citizens of Atchison, Leavenworth and Jefferson counties, in the eastern part of the State were encouraged in prospect of the future advance of the railroad and the favorable accounts given of the Northwest, to visit Washington, view its natural resources, turn pioneer again and grow up with the country. Geo. W. Shriner and Dr. Chas. Williamson visited the county seat in 1867, were pleased with the location, and opened a store there the same year. Their influence and that of the Champion, which was advertising Washington county through its correspondents, caused some sixty families to come to the county. Some of them well known today are Mr. Kelch, W. H. Shriner, Hon. Boaz Williams, Wm. Elliott, Orlando Sawyer, Capt. Heckart, Mr. Allison, Mr. Suber, George Thompson, Mr. Pontium, and many others settling in different portions of the county. The idea then prevailed that the upland prairie would never be settled, but in an article that I wrote for the Champion under the heading of "Where Shall I Build ?" I exposed the fallacy by a description of its soil, its grasses, its healthy location, and adaptation to raising the cereals. An old settler then told me very emphatically, "you will never be.forgiven for the falsehoods told in that article." I told him time would prove my assertion correct. Now look at the result. The prairie is filled with well-to-do farmers. In south Sherman township, in the fall of 1868, came Dr. Randall, W. Cook, E. A. Thomas, Mr. Wilson and F. Currier. In upper Sherman there were M. Williams, M. Whetstine and others. In 1869 came G. M. Parks, J. D. Wilson, J. W. Bell and 100 other families. The other townships were settling in proportion—the Albrights and Ben Clark in Washington township, Mr. Prentiss, McMurray and McConnell in Strawberry township. Settlements were coming in and occupying the high land prairie. Dr. Ballard, McRae, Bruce and C. Hallowell in Little Blue; G. H. Hollenberg, the Oswalds and other influential Germans were locating their friends around them in Hanover township; Mr. Brooks, W. Woody and a number of Swedes were pushing into Clifton township; the Scotch were settling on upper Mill creek; the French in Little Blue and Sherman, and the English and Irish in many portions of the county.
All nationalities and states are represented in this county, including thirteen foreign nations and thirty-two states, the larger portion being from Iowa and Illinois. The population in 1860 was 383, now it is 8,238. There are under cultivation, 80,856.21 acres; 1,020 of the same is devoted to orchards, the oldest of which are laden with fruit this year. The total value of all crops for 1875 was $794,402.19. There is an abundance of limestone on the eastern, northern and western tier of townships, also abundance of potter’s clay and plenty of gypsum. Vacant lands range from two to seven dollars per acre; improved from five to twenty dollars.
There are six different religious denominations in the county. The value of church edifices is $6,090.NOTE: Dr. Williamson’s history was written in 1876. Following is a description of Washington city as it was about 1900.
Adam Flury’s blacksmith shop was located on north Main Street as was Roderick’s Livery Barn. The elder Sheckler was located near the old opera house and repaired bicycles and guns. There was a grocery store on this side of Sheckler’s which was probably owned by one J. B. Sofield or Jones about that time. Fred Powell had a law office in that vicinity, about where Bill Smith’s garage is situated and next to it was a laundry. The old Central hotel, a fine three story building, E. H. Borner’s Implement house, Jim Dennison’s Wagon Shop and M. R. Hays’ lumber yard were on the north side of the square as nearly as residents of that day can tell us.
On the east side of the square was Tom Mangel’s blacksmith shop, a general store, Landon & Robinson’s Implement Store, Jennie Clark’s millinery store, with Elsie Throop as her chief clerk, a dressmaking establishment run by the Hallowells and Fred Stackpole’s hardware store.
Frank Brick ran the old American house, about where the Davis hotel is now and the Calveret store was also in that part of the block. Charley Williamson’s real estate office and a shoe shop and perhaps another real estate office were in this block and Picard Candy Kitchen was about where the Falls City Creamery now stands. The next building housed the post office with Charley Smith as post master and Ober’s book store occupied part of the same building. Z. R. LaFlesche operated a very good restaurant where McConchie’s implement is now and Mr. Parks had a grocery store in the next building. In a frame building this side of the grocery was the Harry Clark Dry Goods and Ready-to-wear store with an alley running between it and the white stone building west of it which housed the W. E. Wilson drug store. Above the store the elder Dr. N. M. Smith had an office and there was a hardware store where the building now known as the LeRoy building stands. On the corner was the Mary E. Little dry goods store in which the former Miss ‘Teen Whittet, now Mrs. Ray Landon, was a popular clerk. South of the hotel was a dressmaking shop and about where the garage now stands was Wright Wertenberger’s livery barn. Next to it was Sid Bradway’s saloon, with a pool hall next to it. Then came J. R. Pruden’s harness shop with whom was associated one Barney McDonald. Leeman Lee had at that time or very soon after a livery barn in the next location and on the corner was the Pierce Produce house. The old Methodist church stood on the same corner that is now occupied by the new church and at that time the Rev. J. G. Henderson was pastor there. Mr. Whittet had a blacksmith shop in the next block.
Tom Sharp had a shop about where he is now and the Esther Collins building, one of the first frame buildings in town was the boast of the entire community. There was a restaurant about where the present pool hall is, operated by one Shilling, or some such name. Mrs. Obendoffer’s Millinery Store was in about the location of the Sheckler Shoe shop, and the Obendoffer and Kleeman dry goods store was about where the bakery now stands. S. H. Varney had a hardware store in the middle of the block, and Fredendall’s Racket store was in the same vicinity. Barley’s and Algie’s grocery stores were in this block as was Ruben Gile’s butcher shop. Several of these businesses were destroyed by fire some time in June 1900. Jim Owens had a barber shop about where Potter’s Jewelry Store now stands, and J. A. Brown, sr., had taken up a business position in the present location of the Brown Drug Store. C. C. Meader had a grocery store on the corner where the Washington National Bank now stands.
West of the Meader building were three little frame buildings housing in turn the H. C. Hill Insurance Agency, Dolliver Wallpaper and Paint Store, and the C. M. Veatch music store. The Hill Agency was continued in later years by his son, C. W. Hill. Mr. Dolliver married the former Miss Lillie Cox, the daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Henry Cox who for so many years lived in the block just west of where the shop used to be. Dr. Runkle had an office in the little building now occupied by the E-Z Laundry and was one of the best loved characters in Washington for many years. No ill was too small to Dr. Runkle and his kindly philosophy of life administered along with the medicines he prescribed, were often valuable and effective as the medicines themselves. The Fred Bullis Bottling Works were about where the Dye Cabins now stand and the elder Bullis had a pool hall where the hatchery now stands.
The marble yard belonged to the Root family.
The First National Bank occupied the position now occupied by the same institution, with Oscar Long holding the controlling interest at that time, and the Simon and Spier Clothing Company was in about the location which houses the present Diedrich Clothing Co. Anna Nesbitt had a book store where the Knedlick Barber Shop stands and some time that year Shillings moved their restaurant into that block. E. G. Grindle had a shoe store about the middle of the block and the site now occupied by the Smith Drug Store was then a vacant lot. M. J. Holloway’s Hardware store was in the old Salvany building and Ed Bennett had a law office either just above it or in the second story of a building in that neighborhood. Hoopers Photograph Gallery was directly above the Holloway store and is where the fire that later destroyed the building is said to have originated. The Fox Drug Store was about where Throops grocery now stands and the Darby Department Store stood next to it. Some time that year Reuben Gile probably moved his butcher shop to a location in that part of town.
A man named William Allen owned the building that stood where the Northup Barber Shop is and one A. Stout had a grocery store there, "Bill" Hilton being one of his clerks. About what is now the south part of E. A. Ward’s Furniture Store was then occupied by the Carlysle Restaurant. Alf Ward had a jewelry shop in connection with the Ward Furniture and Undertaking establishment.
J. S. Alsbaugh and Tom Eves held forth in the Washington National and Dr. Gilstrap had an office overhead. The Arthur Barber Shop was in this part of the block. Lew Sprengle and August Soller had a real estate office in the back part of what is now the First National Bank and Dr. O. D. Wells, dentist, had an office about where Dr. LeMaster is.
Where the United Telephone building now stands, stood the Toby and Stackpole Bank and back of that J. W, Rector’s law office. North of the bank was the Boyd Photograph Gallery and where the present Washington Hotel stands was its forerunner, the Nims Hotel which was the last word in hotel splendor at that time. It was owned and operated by W. E. Nims, a brother of Mrs. Eliza Rust and John and Al Nims (recently deceased). Mr & Wi1liam Allen had a rooming house where the Cottage Hotel now stands, the present hotel having been made when the J. G. Shanleps remodeled the old residence after Mr. Shanlep went out of the harness business here.
Rafe Evans built the first telephone system about 1899 and later H. O. Janicke bought and operated the system. The first electric light plant was situated about where the Washington Monument Works are, but finally went out of existence.
Early State History Of The Discovery of Kansas
Washington County -- 1938
Kansas sod was first trodden on by Europeans 200 years before the settling of Jamestown in Virginia or the landing of the Pilgrims at Plymouth on the New England coast, for in 1541 and ‘42 Coronado and his Spanish expedition from Mexico marched through the state from south to north in search of the seven fabled cities of Cibola. Strictly speaking the earliest history of Washington County commenced in 1542 for historians contend that these Spaniards crossed the Little Blue river near the northern boundary of Washington County. Can you not see them, the plumed knights mounted on steeds searching for the cities of Gold?
In 1719 Kansas was visited by a Frenchman, M. Dustine who took possession of the country in the name of France.
In 1803 Louisiana, including all of Kansas, was purchased from France by the United States.
The overland commerce between Missouri and Santa Fe was established in 1823 and two years later the Santa Fe Trail was surveyed by the United States government. Fort Leavenworth was established in 1827 and in 1850 the government surveyed the military road from Fort Leavenworth to Fort Kearney. Three years later Fort Riley was established.
In 1845 the Mormons assembled near the present site of Atchison to commence their journey across the plains, and from that time the soil of Kansas has been crossed in all directions by the trails of emigrants bound for the Rockies and beyond. Traders, missionaries and Indian agents were the only white persons to whom the country was open until 1854 at which time the Kansas Nebraska bill was signed by President Pierce.
Washington county, located in the northern tier of counties in Kansas, ha a population of 16, 824 compared with 17, 504 for 1937. The total population in cities is reported as 5,711 and in the townships as 11,113.
The population by township and city follows:
Township 1938
1937
Barnes 502
549
Brantford 440
467
Charleston 434
466
Clifton 485
489
Farmington 482
503
Coleman 418
451
Franklin 458
577
Grant 426
469
Greenleaf 451
439
Haddam 475
514
Hanover 459
491
Highland 263
272
Independence 554
518 Kimeo 436
472
Lincoln 422
426
Linn 468
474
Little Blue 376
427
Logan 378
388
Lowe 473
492
Mill Creek 503
510
Sheridan 435
461
Sherman 446
475
Strawberry 474
498
Union 335
371
Washington 520
542
Barnes City 401
439
Clifton City 433
416
Greenleaf City 745
733
Haddam City 390
427
Hanover City 922
921
Linn City 385
416
Mahaska City 220
218
Morrowville City 245
249
Palmer 168
190
Vining 90
110
Washington 1,575
1,644
Hollenberg 137
---
Totals
16,824
17,504
Farm Acreage In 1938 Report
For the year 1938 assessors reports show 521,108 acres of farm land in Washington county. This includes 158,727 acres that were seeded to wheat; 65,155 acres of corn, 33,846 of oats, 6,750 of barley and 17 ,420 acres of alfalfa.
4,010,369 gallons of milk were produced last year in Washington county, 1,704,033 dozen eggs were laid, 380,727 chickens were raised, 18,298 turkeys, 14,420 calves were born, 22,735 pigs, 2,454 lambs, 537 horse colts and 171 mule colts.County Ticket For 1938 Election
Since 1938 is election year, a list of the county candidates for offices is included:Register of Deeds—Republican, Herman Worschow. Democrat, Daisy Peeples.
Sheriff—Republican, F. A. Diedrichs. Democrat, John Burnett.
County Superintendent—Republican, Chester Morris.
Clerk of District Court—Republican, Alta Hennon. Democrat, Ray Unfred.
State Representative—Republican, Wilbur Kohlmeier. Democrat, Ed Geistfeld.
County Clerk—Republican, R. M. Landon. Democrat, J. A. Patterson.
County Treasurer—Republican, Sherman Lull. Democrat, Ed Danielson.
Probate Judge—Republican, J. P. Snare. Democrat, Oliver Skipton.
County Commissioner—Republican, J. D. Werner. Democrat, Ed Lohmeyer.
County Attorney—Republican, Loren Rosenkranz.County Officers In Court House
The new Washington county court house is one of the most attractive court houses in this section of the state. It is surrounded by a large lawn of grass with several small trees.
On the main floor of the Court House the offices of the County Engineer, the Register of Deeds, the County Treasurer, the County Clerk, the Commissioner’s Office and the Probate Judge.
Q. H. Miller is the County Engineer and Mrs. Gladys McLeod is his assistant.
The Register of Deeds is Herman C. Worschow. His deputy is Mrs. Roxy Longwell.
Sherman F. Lull is the County Treasurer. This is his first term as County Treasurer although he served two terms as Deputy. His Deputy is John Schwab. Ruth Griffin also assists in the Treasurer’s office.
The County Clerk is R. M. Landon. Mrs. Veva Bonar is Deputy County Clerk.
R. L. Rust is Probate Judge and County Judge. His deputy is Mrs. Harold T. Barnes.
The County Commissioners are George Wilkins of Linn, Orville Graham of Washington, and Murray Moore of Barnes. Mr. Graham is chairman of the board.
On the second floor of the Court House the offices of the Sheriff, Clerk of District Court, County Attorney and County Superintendent of Schools are located. Also on this floor is found the Court Room and the Agricultural Adjustment Administration office. Judge Tom Kennett of Concordia is Judge of the District Court.
Mrs. Robert Meyer, Miss Hilda Vell, Miss Genevieve Novotny, Miss Zoa Diedrich, Miss Zola Barckley, Miss Helen Evans and Miss Ruth Elaine Wieters work in the AAA office. The Seed Loan office is also located on this floor.
Fred A. Diedrichs is Sheriff of Washington County. Nate Bond is his deputy.
Chester Morris is serving his first term as County Superintendent. Mrs. Nate Bond is deputy.
Mrs. Alta Hennon is Clerk of the District Court. Miss Della Hoerman is deputy.
The County Attorney is Loren Rosenkranz. Miss Nadine Lobaugh works part time in the office.
Several offices are located in the basement of the Court House.
The Farm Bureau office includes two rooms. Leonard F. Neff is County Farm Agent. Miss Eleanor Ehlers is his assistant. Miss Vira Brown is Home Demonstration Agent and O. Willard Kershaw is in charge of 4-H work. Miss Margaret Horner is also in the office.
Mrs. Nettie Shuss is the Poor Commissioner. Miss Mary Henderson and Mrs. Ira Lillibridge, Miss Esther Gressman, Miss Edith Meyer, Miss Maxine Doebele and Mrs. Lula Johnson help in the office which is located just east of the Farm Bureau office.
The Farm Administration office is also in the basement of the Court House with Buford Miller in charge.
James Pifer is the janitor of the Court House.
FAMOUS ROUTE OF PONY EXPRESS
IS DEPICTED IN MAP BY W. R. HONNELLMonths of Research Brings to Light Entertaining and Thrilling Tales of Stirring Days When Riders Dared Indians and Elements to Carry the Mails Over Mountains and Plains
(Reprinted by permission of the Kansas City Kansan)W. R. Honnell, veteran member of the board of education and a student of early day history of the American frontier has completed a map of the route of the Pony Express which was operated for a period of eighteen months and provided 10-day mail service between St. J oseph, Mo., then the western terminus of the Burlington Railroad, and Sacramento, Calif.
Research over a period of more than six months was necessary for Honnell to finish the undertaking. The map shows the location of every station on the more than 2,000-mile route.
Honnell was familiar with the early day Pony Express, being born at Kennekuk, Kan., one of the stations along the route. Since he was born the same year the express was established, most of his recollections are of hearsay remarks by those acquainted with the band of men who, so valiently carried the mail through to the western coast.Stories of Old Trail
Honnell’s early day remembrances of the stories of the old trail were further enhanced by the yarns related by two of his uncles who braved the dangers of the unknown trails to the mining fields of California in the gold rush of 1849. The uncles, in company with three other men, made the long trek across the western plains and desert in an old covered wagon. Enroute their two yoke of oxen died of starvation and thirst and the weary band of travelers finally reached their destination some six months later with themselves pulling a crude cart made from the two rear wheels of the wagon.
A year later one of Honnell’s uncles returned after making the homeward trip around the cape in a sailing vessel and with some $9,000 worth of gold dust in his pocket.Dangerous Route
The old Oregon Trail over which the adventurous souls made their way in search of fame and fortune was frought with the greatest of dangers. Marauding bands of Indians and renegade whites, took an awful toll among the spirited individuals who left the security of the east to gamble with death in a search for a new home and happiness in the west.
During his lifetime Honnell has owned three farms bordering the old trail and on each of these farms he reports he has discovered unmarked graves where rest the mortal remains of those who flaunted fate and came out loser. According to Honnell an estimated 5,000 persons perished before they reached the foothills of the Rockies, succumbing on the sun-baked plains of Kansas and Nebraska.
Unable to find any authentic data about the early day transportation experiment, Honnell decided to map the route followed by the venturesome riders. This he had done after nearly eight months of study and research, which included correspondence with several score old timers who have vivid recollections of the early express route and its riders.Start of Pony Express
The idea for the Pony Express was conceived by the members of the transportation firm of Russell, Majors and Waddell. At that time the three men operated the most extensive transportation company in the west. Huge caravans of covered wagons operated by the company made regular trips over the Oregon trail with their cargoes of freight and supplies for those in the western camps and outposts. No firm had a higher or more deserved reputation for integrity. Employees, on entering the service, were required to subscribe to an oath that they would not drink, use profane language, or fight or quarrel with other employees of the firm. Overland freight trains operated by the company always rested on Sundays.
Something of the vastness of the firm can be comprehended by a statement made by Horace Greeley in 1859 when he reported that some 6,000 teamsters, 50,000 oxen and more than 5,000 wagons were in the employ of the company. In 1865, according to Honnell, the firm dispatched from Atchison, Kan., more than 21 million tons of freight, which had been shipped there by boat, bound for points in the west.Need for Mail Route
The westward migrations of the Mormons in 1847 and the discovery of gold in 1848 brought about the demand and the necessity for the Pony Express which, in Honnell’s opinion saved California to the union. It also proved that permanent lines of communication could be maintained over the dangerous route through all seasons of the year.
When the line was first established it cut the mail time more than two thirds. Prior to the establishment of the express route, the fastest trips took thirty days. The pony riders maintained a regular schedule of ten days. One trip, bearing the news of Lincoln’s inaugural address, was completed in seven days and seventeen hours, according to Honnell.
In establishing the route 190 stations were set up over the hazardous, 2,000-mile unmarked trail. Four hundred station keepers and helpers were employed to care for the horses and riders and an average of 450 of the best horses available were kept by the company. There were forty main division points along the trail.Riders in Relays
At each division point fresh riders sped the mail on its dangerous trip. Each rider would ride 100 to 110 miles but horses were changed at stations spotted along the trail at twelve to fifteen mile intervals. The stations were little more than tiny shacks with a stable for the fleet horses. Often a rider would come over a small rise, expecting to change to a fresh horse, only to find that Indians had descended on the place, massacred those in the station, driven away the horses and set fire to the buildings. The rider and his mount would then have to go on to the next station before they were allowed a well earned rest, Honnell explained.
The Pony Express riders were chosen with great care from young men who had been reared on the frontier and who were alert horsemen, according to Honnell. No others would have been equal to this arduous task of skill and endurance. They were noted for their bravery and coolness in moments of great danger. They had to be able to think and act quickly, for they were continually surrounded by danger from Indians, from renegade outlaws and horse thieves not to mention severe winter storms and snow filled mountain passes.Mail Had to Go Through
The mail must go through was the motto of the hardy band of horsemen, according to Honnell. Through sunshine and storm, without even the friendly stars to guide the riders along their lonely journey. They rode on day and night, singing their love songs to the rhythm of their galloping ponies, as they passed through herds of stampeding buffalo, prowling coyotes and lobo wolves.
Many of the dim trails were scarcely more than a bridle path, zigzagging along the streams and the brinks of dark precipes, and the narrow caverns were infested with blood-thirsty savages lying in wait to lift the scalps of the daring riders who had entered their lonely fastness.
Often their ponies stepped into badger holes and prairie dog dens, throwing horse and rider and frequently injuring both, according to Honnell. Often such a fall would break the horse’s leg. Then the rider would remove his precious mail sack and with a sad heart dispatch his pony as an act of mercy rather than leave it to be devoured by the wolves. He would then wend his way on foot to the next station where a new mount would be provided and the mail would be carried even faster in an attempt to make up the lost time.Death Rate Low
Contrary to popular belief, the death rate among the riders was surprisingly low, according to Honnell. In his investigation he discovered but one rider who had been killed by the Indians while he was carrying the mail. In this instance the horse escaped and made its way to the next station and the precious cargo of mail was saved.
Many were the narrow escapes that the courageous riders had. Numerous tales relate how a dust covered rider on his sweat streaked horse, would gallop to the protection of the station house with blood streaming from one or more arrow wounds.
The riders, with the fleetest mounts the company could buy, had the advantage over the humble redskins with their inferior grade horses. Riders were instructed to out run the Indians and give battle only when there was no other alternative.
Each horseman was armed with two revolvers, a knife and an extra cylinder of cartridges. The entire equipment, including the saddle and bridle, did not exceed thirteen pounds and the weight of the mail sack was never over twenty pounds, according to Honnell. The charge for carrying the letters was $5 for each one-half ounce. To economize letters were written on the finest grade tissue paper.Riders Well Paid
The regular riders were extremely well paid for those times, with salaries ranging from $100 to $125 a month. Station keepers were paid $50 to $100 per month and were given their board. As a financial success the great transportation venture didn’t fare so well. It was established at a cost of more than $700,000, and the receipts during the eighteen months of operation totaled but $500,000 according to Honnell.
Undoubtedly the venture would have proved successful were it not for the fact that telegraph lines were strung to the coast and the railroad lines completed. When it was seen that the schedule of the Pony Express could be maintained, the telegraph and train service was installed. The hardy riders were unable to cope with the speed of lightning or the charge of the "iron horse" across the prairies and what was probably the most courageous transportation experiment in the history of the world was disbanded.Riders Were Famous
Many famous figures in frontier history were at one time or another employees for the Pony Express. "Wild Bill" Hickock, "Buffalo Bill" Cody as well as others whose lives were devoted to opening a new country over which American civilization was ultimately to spread, have their names firmly entrenched in the annals of Pony Express history.
Among the famous riders was Jack Keetely, whose regular run was from the eastern terminus of the route, westward to Seneca, Kan. This was later extended to Rock Creek, Neb., and the leathery rider performed one of the most remarkable rides in the history of the service. He rode from Rock Creek to St. Joseph, returned to Rock Creek and then doubled back over the route to Seneca without so much as taking time enough for a good meal. In all he covered a total of 340 miles by spending thirty-one continuous hours in the saddle. When he entered Seneca at the completion of the record breaking run he was taken from his saddle fast asleep, according to Honnell."Wild Bill" Hickok
Another of the famous pioneers of the west who was an employee of the company was "Wild Bill" Hickok, who was placed in charge of the station at Rock Creek, Neb., on the ranch of David C. McCanles, a virile character of questionable standing. McCanles was quarrelsome and domineering, according to Honnell. One day he came over to the station to take charge of the place with his henchmen. In the fight that resulted Hickok was alleged to have killed the band of four men. "Wild Bill" and his associate at the station house were arrested and tried on a murder charge, but were acquitted.
Hickok was reputed to be the most successful peace officer that the frontier ever had and the most deadly and unerring shot. When he was appointed marshal of Abilene, he had already killed forty-three men in the line of duty, not including the men or the Indians while scouting, according to Honnell.
One interesting tale demonstrating his prowess as a marksman is told about Hickok. When marshal of Abilene, two men committed murder and fled, pursued by Hickok. They went into a saloon at Solomon and "Wild Bill" followed them. They escaped by a rear door, each taking a different direction. When Hickok emerged from the saloon with a revolver in each hand, he killed both men, but the bystanders said they heard but one shot. He could place objects fifty feet away and widely apart and shoot both at the same time, Honnell said."Buffalo Bill" Cody
William F. Cody, who later gained the title of "Buffalo Bill’ was the most widely known of all the Pony Express riders. His route was the most perilous of any along the long trail, lying between Red Butte and Three Crossings in Wyoming. It was in the center of the hunting grounds of the Sioux nation and a rendezvous of outlaws and horse thieves, Honnell relates.Escapes from Indians
His numerous escapes from skirmishes with the Indians fill many of the pages in his Biography. One day when he arrived at Three Crossings, his home station, he discovered that the rider scheduled to relieve him, had been killed the day before in a drunken brawl. Without the slightest hesitation, he obtained a fresh mount and pushed on to the next station, Rock Ridge, eighty-five miles away over extremely hazardous trails. Arriving there he obtained the eastbound mail, turned around and made the trip back to Red Butte. In all he covered a total of 322 miles over the roughest trails of the Pony Express route. This and the ride of Keetely stand out as the longest rides made by any of the hardy riders, Honnell explained.
The mail was carried in a "mochila" which fitted over the saddle and contained four 12 by 9 inch pouches in which the mail was secreted. Another interesting tale told by Honnell concerning "Buffalo Bill" has to do with an instance when he carried a large amount of money on his run. Knowing that numerous bad men were in the region, the courageous rider used two "mochilas," placing the one containing the valuables under his saddle and another, containing worthless papers over the saddle. Sure enough, after he was a few miles on his journey, two men jumped from behind a clump of trees and covered him with their rifles. "Buffalo Bill" gave them the worthless sack, but they relaxed their vigil for a moment and he shot and killed one of the men and the other fled. Thus he was able to recover the second "mochila" although its contents were of no value.A Saga of the Old West
Without doubt the short history of the early day Pony Express is firmly imprinted in the saga of the romantic old west. The venturesome riders with their fleet steeds certainly composed the "air mail" of the nineteenth century. The 10-day communication facilities with the Pacific coast probably did more to open the country for civilization than any other enterprise until the completion of the first rail track which was rushed after the express riders started their regular runs. The Pony Express is firmly entrenched in the annals of the history of the American frontier and the riders did much to pave the way for the rapid spread of civilization over the wide expense of fertile plains, through lofty crags and mountains to the western slopes of the Rockies that gently dip into the waters of the Pacific.
by John G. Ellenbecker of Marysville
One mile northeast of the present Hanover, on the west bank of Cottonwood creek, still stands the old station house of Cottonwood or Hollenberg station. This building built out of native sawed lumber, was erected by G. H. Hollenberg in late 1857 and '58, where the Oregon and California Trail crossed Cottonwood creek, a tributary of the Little Blue river from the northeast.
The main structure was about 20x70 feet, a story and a half high. It was the first frame house, if not the first house, built in Washington county. It was and still is situated on a sightly knoll overlooking a rich wooded bottom of the creek after which it was named.Built for Commerce
The old Trail, used ever since 1827, came from Westport, Mo., up along the Kaw, crossing this stream at various points above, on and below the present site of Topeka, bearing northwestward, crossed the Black Vermillion and the Big Blue in Marshall county; then ran on northwest past Hollenberg’s ranch, on along the Little Blue to Fort Kearney and to the Pacific ocean.
On that site G. H. Hollenberg saw an opportunity to make money by supplying the needs of the immigrants moving in wagon trains along that Trail into the great West.
So hauling the lumber from the Barrett saw mill, he constructed this ranch building so large that it would house himself and family and furnish quarters for a general store and post office and hostlery.
When G. H. Hollenberg came west in 1854 he first settled on the Black Vermillion near where now is Bigelow, on this old Trail. There he also operated a store and a farm. Here on May 15, 1858, he was married to Miss Sophia Brockmeier and took his bride at once to his recently built Cottonwood Station.Saw Heavy Travel
In those years there was heavy travel over the Oregon Trail. The gold rush of the early ‘50’s had barely subsided. Each year during 1858 and ‘59 and the ‘60’s perhaps 15,000 immigrants went westward over this trail.
A station like this did a great deal of business. There were always people there for meals or for lodging or in camp. The store was called on for clothing and food stuffs by these people, as flour, bacon, coffee, sugar, butter, milk and eggs. Many other things had to be freighted from St. Joseph or Atchison by wagon.
Then the large number of animals driven to the emigrants’ wagons and stage coaches required oats, corn, and hay, especially in winter. Then at a ranch like this there was always a demand for horses and cattle; and herds of each of these were raised on the fine bluestem pastures and kept for sale at the station.Pony Express Starts
So in those spacious bottoms of Cottonwood creek a large amount of corn was raised by Mr. Hollenberg and considerable hay also for the trade was put up each autumn.
In the spring of 1860, just before the Pony Express was started, A, E, Lewis of Atchison, the superintendent of the Eastern division, came along and made arrangements for Mr. Hollenberg to house and feed three or four fleet ponies to run the beats eastward and westward on and after April 3.
Below the hill from the station house was a long stable that could house and shelter perhaps 100 head of horses and oxen; and this was always in demand, especially during cold weather. There was a large corral to hold loose stock and ricks and ricks of hay stood on the windward side shouldering each other. Nearby were also corn cribs and grain bins.
At the beginning from April 3, the Pony Express mail passed here both ways once a week. After June 1, 1860, twice a week until July 1, 1861. From then it passed daily eastward and westward until the enterprise was discontinued on October 24, that year.
One of the faithful stocktenders of the Pony Express horses at Cottonwood Station was the late Henry Brochmeyer of Hanover. His grave as well as the monument erected to the memory of G. H. Hollenberg in the Hanover public cemetery was decorated by the Hanover Boy Scouts on May 30th of this year (1938). This was part of the program carried out by the Oregon Trail Memorial Association through the United States -- to decorate the graves of all persons connected with the Pony Express.The Stage Coaches
On July 1, 1861, when the daily Holladay Stage Line was started, Mr. Hollenberg saw new and added activity come to his place. This line ran from Atchison on the Missouri to Sacramento in California. Every day two stages passed -- one going east and one going west. Horses were kept here to make changes. These stages carried always a driver and an express messenger and could accommodate nine passengers.
These people all were apt to take meals at Cottonwood Station, if they did not stay there over night. So that old station house saw many people daily of that moving throng; and sometimes as many as two dozen men were sleeping in the upstairs loft. And this stage business continued until Mr. Holladay rerouted his stages over the Oketo Cutoff.A Famous Hostlery
Early the U. S. government gave the Cottonwood station a post office. Hollenberg’s principal clerk, George Perkins, was duly sworn in as post master and there was the first post office in Washington county.
So in this old building, still in a fair condition of preservation, are all the rooms wherein were discharged the various duties of post office, store, dining hall, kitchen, and sleeping quarters.
In the heyday of its opulence and activity thousands of people annually shared its hospitality. The king of the staging business, Ben Holladay, and secretary quaffed at its bar and board many a time; also David Street, the general paymaster, who passed over the route quarterly; Bela M. Hughes, the general counsel of the stage company, and scores of other important personages graced and enjoyed its dining hall.The Camp Grounds
It is said that in those boon days of overland travel it was a common thing to see the people of 100 or more wagons camp over night or over Sunday around Cottonwood station; and that to stand near the station house on the knoll and see almost numberless campfires gleaming east and south through the bottoms of Cottonwood creek, was a sight never to be forgotten. And so was the noise and bustle in the morning at "catching-up time." Likewise were those camps as well as the old station house in the evening scenes of merriment and laughter.
It should be borne in mind that four miles east of Cottonwood station the St. Joseph feeder joined the Oregon Trail and this combined traffic passed Mr. Hollenberg’s door; and during the 50’s and 60’s both roads saw heavy travel.
Frank J. Marsha1l, the founder of Marysville, in 1895, from Denver, wrote to J. S. Magil at Marysville telling of the heavy travel when he operated the ferry on the Big Blue. He wrote that "on some days from 5,000 to 10,000 people passed here." Let us also keep in mind that in some emigrant trains were over 1,000 people.
In 1857 and '58, Gen. Albert Sidney Johnston went over this road with 5,000 troops from Fort Leavenworth to Utah. Russell, Majors and Waddell hauled the army supplies for these troops. They had over a dozen wagon trains hauling frieght during these years, and for years had part of their equipment, which consisted of 6,000 wagons and 75,000 oxen, on this Oregon Trail.A Witness To Progress
The old station house that witnessed all these old-time activities still stands, unaltered, inchanged save for the wear and tear of the years that have flown. But how eloquent it becomes under the sway of the reminiscent tongue and the retrospective pen! O, that its walls could speak! It is a rare relic of the pioneer days.
This old structure, though plain and humble now amid modern surroundings, witnessed the drama that changed a wilderness and solitude into a garden and a park. It saw the Indian and the buffalo vanish from the plains. It saw the prairie breaker change the bluestem vistas into our golden wheat fields. It saw the sumac and wild cherry thickets on the rich creek bottoms give way to our fields of emerald corn.
It looked upon a drama of progress such as would take a Dickens to describe; and a conviviality and a hospitality as only a Mark Twain could picture; and this last named genius of the quill even tread its door steps.
I am certain that ten times as many people passed its doors during those epochal years as now dwell in populus Washington county. Hence is it such a historic shrine on that storied old Trail.
It has seen the regeneration of many vernal springs; it has seen four score of snowy winters, and basked in as many sun-kissed summers. But may it survive onward still through countless future years.'Cottonwood' Station, A National Shrine
Deeply entrenched in the hearts of the appreciative people of the nation is the realization of what the Pony Express really did and its corresponding effect on the people as a binding link to what was to follow immediately and later.
Time has placed into discard all of the 190 stations in the 2000 mile route between St. Joseph, Mo., and Sacremento, Calif., save one, and that is "Cottonwood Station" in Washington County. After a lapse of 78 years we awaken and find the treasure is ours and that the nation’s eyes are focused on it.
Anew the men, women and children from near and far seek this historic knoll with its modest frame building and its nearby small barn made of native stone. Already they view the adjoining lowlands on the east and south, beyond which was a hollow in the bluffs, a natural opening in the hills, through which the numberless ox-team, horse-team, and mule-team caravans came. Almost do they see that robust young man on his dashing steed bugle his approach to the station that the change of horses should take the fewest seconds so that he might be "on with the mail" -- the care-taker being left to rub down and treat the faithful horse that, wet with sweat or even white with foam, had covered its period of miles.
Constantly increasing interest in the old Oregon Trail and the Pony Express has been centering more and more in this old ranch house. The recent visit to Hollenberg Ranch by Dr. Howard Driggs of New York, president of the Oregon Trail Memorial Association; Major Arthur Proctor, secretary-treasurer; Perry Driggs, office manager; and John Ellenbecker, Marysville, historian and a director of the organization was instrumental in creating. a more vivid picture of the importance and historic value of the Ranch. Speaking at the dedication of a marker that was being placed on a road near the Ranch, Dr. Driggs said in part:"You people of Washington and Marshall counties are the possessors of one of the most precious historic spot in the United States today. We of the Oregon Trail Memorial Association in the past several years in our national study of the Trail and historic spots in connection with it have found nothing equal to it in historic importance. Having gone over the trail several times we have found foundations of old stations, here and there a fallen down barn, and ruins of old stations and barns. It is the outstanding pleasure of the entire trip for me to stand here today before this building -- the only original, unaltered Pony Express station standing in the United States today -- and take part in the dedication of this marker. Surely this is one spot that should be preserved for the inspiration of future generations."
From a historical standpoint that old building and the ground on which it stands is sacred ground. The younger generation and the generations yet unborn should be given the opportunity to visit this station. It should be their privilege "to thrill to the thundering of hoofbeats of the riders" as they dashed across an unsettled country amid thousands of dangers unheard of today.
In this streamlined age of speed in transportation we are prone to forget the accomplishments of the Pony Express in 1860 and 1861 and its glorious achievements of the opocal expansion and widening civilization of our great nation. A glimpse at this old relic of the past and a walk over the grounds where every inch has been gladly of sadly trodden upon in the early day would call us from our reverie and ignite that spark of appreciation due these active, valiant men. As we stand on this hallowed ground, we might even absorb some of their genius, their courage, their perservance, their devotion to duty and utter disregard for hardship.
Cottonwood Station should be kept intact. It should by all means be preserved. An immediate reconditioning of this national historic spot is urged that all may be in readiness when the great groups of people visit it. The time is ripe for the development of a national park to include these memorable grounds. The time is here for a few acres of ground to be set aside for beautification that a return as nearly as possible to its original appearance might be made.The Old Pioneer’s Story
There child, put back the little faded sheet
Of yester-years. Come here and quietly sit down.
Those memories are so very dear to me,
The prairie and the little scattered town --
Just one lone store within its house of frame
And six or eight log cabins weathered brown;
As soon its I arrived, I stood and watched
The stockade’s smoldering ruins -- just burned down.They told how it had housed a tiny print-shop --
A county paper in that early day.
Yes, young Mark Kelley did a lot to bring
Such men as me from states so far away.
Ten thousand families -- so that paper said
Was what we needed in this country then;
And how they came, yes, by the score,
Good, kind, brave-hearted, valiant men.It was in eighteen seventy the rush began
From the Eastern states. The town was plotted by them.
Many new buildings swiftly went up round the square
And numberless homesteads were filed by dozens of men.
In winter, our larder was well supplied with game
And prairie chickens made the best of pie,
Turkeys, buffalo and deer still roamed at will
But not for long for their demand was high.Many a man of the trail remembers the house
Of logs with its inviting well in the midst of the road
Where so often they paused to quench the thirst
Of man and beast, and rest from the dust and the load.
Though it followed the ridge, the road was long;
For supplies, be they meager or much, must be brought to the claim.
Be man rich or poor it mattered not,
The gait of horses and oxen was much the same.Small school houses went up, first one then another,
And they housed entertainment as well as the "rule."
Home talent plays were given and granges were held
As well as spelling bees and singing’ school.
Anon, the little county paper came
A welcome guest within each household there
And "stranger" was synonymous with "friend"
And given place within the fireside chair.Happy the youngster who happened to spend the night
Within the crude home of the old pioneer; for oft
They would play in the bluestem till dark, or help with the chores.
Then after the wee tots were all put to bed in the loft
They would pop corn over a crackling hot fire,
Or make candy of home-grown sorghum molasses
But usually managed to save out a bit for next day
Just to lazily munch on at recess from classes.One calm fall night when the moon was riding high,
A group of young people made straight for the old south mill;
A party they called it, with post-office and love-in-the-dark,
And other such games. Yes, I remember it still,
There were dancing clubs with a small orchestra:
A violin, organ and old bass viol. But say --
They do the same things now that they used to do,
Except that they’re done in a slightly different way.There child, my story is about complete
For seventy years have almost come and gone;
And, though we old men linger by the road,
The younger generation hurries on.
But still, the greatest game in life, you'll find
Is building a home, that harbors a love so pure,
So clean, that nothing e'er can shake your trust --
That's the kind that always will endure.
--Anita Welch Fletcher
Fort Leavenworth Military Road
The old Military Road was the first and most important transportation line across Northeast Kansas, and from there to the Far West. White men followed the Indians over its original trace. Pioneer settlers of Kansas, Nebraska, Colorado, Wyoming, Utah, Idaho, Nevada, California, Oregon, and Washington plodded over its weary length to open up half a continent.
We are indebted to George A. Root of the Kansas Historical Society for the following story. He searched through 150 volumes of Western books and many manuscripts for his material. We consider it so vital to an understanding of how the original settlers arrived in this and other Western territory, that it is printed in the forepart of this edition.—Editor.Written by George A. Root of the Kansas State Historical Society
Threading its way over the hills to the northwest from Cantonment Leavenworth in early days ran a trail no doubt used by the plains Indians from time immemorial. This trail was laid out by no surveyor. It was a natural highway to the mountains, the Pacific, and Oregon, and ultimately developed into the most important highway of the trans-Mississippi region.
Several military roads were laid out from Fort Leavenworth. One ran to Fort Gibson; one connected with the Santa Fe Trail; another ran to Fort Riley; another led to the Platte river and on west. This last one was variously known as the "Military Road" and "Salt Lake Trail." It was primarily a military road, and was laid out to facilitate the transportation of supplies to the two newly established posts on the Platte river—Fort Kearney and Fort Laramie.
From the New York Tribune, on June 28, 1854, we condense the following regarding this highway: The old military road, into which the road from St. Joseph entered, was abandoned on account of the large streams, swamps, barrens and hills, and its general crookedness. By the new road the table of distances to the Big Blue was as follows: To Salt Creek, or Kickapoo creek, 3 miles; Rock creek, 33; Willow Brook, 5; Millbrook, 4; Grasshopper, 7; Muddy Brook, 15; Turkey creek, 14; Vermillion, 18; Big Blue, 29, this being a distance of 131 miles from Fort Leavenworth.
(Edit. Note—As Grasshopper was the crossing west of Kennekuk, the distance from Leavenworth to that point was 52 miles.)Fort Leavenworth Most Popular
On account of its central position Fort Leavenworth early became the most favorable point of departure for expeditions to the far west. Among those via the Platte route was that of Gen. Joseph Lane for Oregon in 1848, and Capt. Howard Stansbury for Utah in 1849, and Fremont on an exploring tour the same year.
For a number of years prior to the establishment of Cantonment Leavenworth in the fall of 1827 a trail led to the southwest from near the mouth of the Kaw river, and on to Santa Fe. This highway had been used for years before being surveyed by the U. S, government in 1825-‘27, and was a recognized highway before there was any sort of government military establishment within the confines of present Kansas.
During the period to the 1840’s, few white men, other than hunters, trappers and occasional exploring parties had ever passed over the northern trail. Following the start of emigration to Oregon, the route up the Platte river became a popular one, and the erstwhile trail used by the Indians became a well-defined, busy highway.
By this time a road had been laid out from Fort Leavenworth running northward paralleling the Missouri river for some miles, no doubt to connect with an emigrant road running westward from St. Joseph, as considerable Oregon travel was departing from that city for the far west. For many years a great portion of the Oregon travel was by way of the Oregon Trail from Independence, Mo., which followed the divides on the south side of the Kansas river and crossed that stream at one of the various ferries operating within present Shawnee County. The Trail then headed up the Kaw and Big Blue valleys into what is now Marshall County. About five or six miles below present Marysville, the Mormons crossed the Big Blue river at a point close to the mouth of the Little Blue. This point took the name of Independence Crossing, the name attaching on account of Latter Day Saints driven out of Independence, Mo., crossing the Blue at this point. A noted camping place was situated close to this crossing, known as Alcove Spring, where there was an unfailing supply of good water. This spring is said to have been visited by Fremont in 1842, and used by the ill-fated Donner party in 1846, while on their way to California. From here the road bore up the valley of the Little Blue and into Nebraska.Traffic Increased Rapidly on Route
Following the Oregon and Mormon travel of the late 1840’s, traffic on this route had increased by leaps and bounds. One trapper making his way down the Platte from Fort Laramie, counted no less than 4,000 wagons all headed westward. Another authority recorded over 6,000 wagons loaded with freight passing Fort Kearney going west, within a short space of time, over 900 going by during the last three days of the count. Paxson, in his "History of the American Frontier -- 1763-1893" states that "upwards of 70,000 men, women and children, with wagons, and flocks and herds innumerable passed over this road in 1849-50."
On account of this increasing travel westward from Fort Leavenworth, Capt. Howard Stansbury in 1849-50, surveyed a route to Salt Lake. This survey located the crossing of the Big Blue at present Marysville, a few miles up stream from old Independence Crossing, which proved to be a more advantageous point for freighters to cross the river.
Traveling as it did the buffalo range, the road also ran through the heart of the plains Indians’ country. The Indians naturally resented the long trains of white-topped wagons, creaking along this trail through their favorite hunting grounds, and now and then committed some overt acts intended to show their resentment. For the protection of these travelers the government built a post on the south side of the Platte river in 1849, which was first known as Fort Child, and shortly afterwards changed to Fort Kearney, in honor of the general of that name. This was the first military post established by the United States on this route between the Missouri river and the Pacific coast. Fort Kearney’s early buildings were constructed of sod and adobe, but officers’ quarters were said to have been built of lumber, and were up-to-date for those early times.Noted Travelers Traveled This Route
The Platte river ran along to the north of the fort stretching for many miles to the east and west. In many respects this stream is much like the Arkansas river to the south—making up in width what it lacks in depth. Washington Irving wrote of the Platte in 1832: "It is the most magnificent and most useless of streams." Artemus Ward, the humorist, crossed the plains in 1864 by the Platte route and wrote that "the Platte would be a good river if set up on edge." Having a shallow channel, the waters are more or less roily at times, which fact prompted some wag of earlier days to remark that catfish navigating the stream were obliged to come out of the water ever so often to sneeze, in order to rid their lungs of sediment accumulated.
It was some undertaking to get ready for an overland journey in those early times, and required not only much time in preparation but the expenditure of large sums of money as well. All staple supplies were to be found at the large outfitting houses at Missouri river points, and were to be had at reasonable prices. When bought at any of the trading posts farther west such articles cost double or triple what they did at Missouri river points.
Indians were a hazard at all times and had to be reckoned with. Frequently they held up a wagon train. If they refrained from making warlike attacks to get what they wished, they got what they wanted by more subtle methods—by begging—making such outrageous demands for eats and tobacco that the travelers were practically "cleaned out." The most serious of these disturbances were those which occurred along the Platte route during the summer of 1864, participated in by Cheyennes, Sioux, Kiowas and Arapahoes.Lost Half a Million in Six Weeks
All traffic for a distance of 300 miles suddenly stopped, and no freighting or stage service was carried on for six weeks. The Overland Stage line lost heavily by these depredations, its losses amounting to more than half a million dollars. From a few friendly Indians who straggled into the forts it was learned that they had met and conversed with marauding bands of these hostiles, from whom the information was gleaned that the Indians were fearful of the paleface emigration westward and feared that they (the Indians) would soon lose all their land. The land, they declared, belonged to them exclusively and it was their intention to again get possession of it and hold it, even if they had to kill every man, woman and child to accomplish their purpose.
Cholera was scarcely less to be feared on the plains than Indians in the "Forties" and "Fifties." This scourge is said to have been introduced on the plains by travelers who came up the Mississippi and Missouri by steamboats. At practically every camping place along the trail from Missouri river points to out along the Blue and Platte rivers freshly dug graves marked the spot where some unfortunate pilgrim had been laid away.Immensity of the Freighting Business
Following the discovery of gold in California in the late 1840’s, immigration received a great impetus. Wagon trains along the trail increased by the thousands. Many of these started from St. Joseph and Westport, but the greater portion left Fort Leavenworth. Some idea of the freighting business by oxen which grew out of this overland traffic may be gleaned from the following taken from an address by Alexander Caldwell, an early day freighter of Leavenworth:"Before the Civil War Kansas City, Independence and St. Joseph were the great outfitting points for freighting across the plains, but during the war and afterwards, Leavenworth, Atchison, Nebraska City and Omaha were the principal points of departure. Leavenworth, however, being far in the lead in account of the vast quantity of military stores concentrated at that point for distribution to points in the West. One company having headquarters at Leavenworth, estimated that supplies required annually for the military alone, amounted to from 35 to 50 millions of pounds. A train of 25 wagons started from the Missouri river on the first day of May, required about five months to reach Salt Lake City. A wagon train usually consisted of 26 wagons, with 300 head of cattle; 25 drivers; a ‘captain’ (or wagon master); an assistant; and 3 extra men; in all 30 men. To transport 50,000,000 pounds of freight by wagon train, required 10,000 wagons; 12,000 men and 120,000 head of stock.
"These prairie schooners, if placed end to end in one continuous line in the ordinary way of freighting, would have formed a column more than 1,000 miles long. This was an expensive method of transportation, for the equipment necessary to ‘carry on’ ran into big money. A single train of 26 wagons represented an investment of about $35,000, and equipment and stock necessary to transport 50,000,000 pounds of freight would cost more than $5,000,000. The cost of subsisting and moving these caravans was enormous, and therefore large rates of transportation were paid. As late as 1865 the Government paid $2.25 per 100 pounds per 100 miles. The distance from Leavenworth to Salt Lake City being 1,200 miles, made the cost per 100 pounds $27, or $540 per ton. At this rate a wagon train of 25 wagons would earn $45,000. Today the same amount of freight is taken by rail at a cost of $1,500."The Bull Whacker Knew His Business
The early day professional "bull whacker" was a hard citizen. Profanity was a part of his nature, and it is said that the cattle did their best pulling in proportion to the energy and fluency with which the driver delivered himself of his most vigorous efforts in that line. In wet weather wagons would become mired in the mud up to the axle and the cattle in the mire almost to their backs. The late Thomas A. Scott, railroad magnate, having a moneyed interest in a freighting outfit, passed by one wagon mired down to the axle, addressing the driver said: "Well, my man, you are in a bad fix." "Oh, no," he replied, "I am all right, but there are two wagons below mine, and those fellows down there are having a hell of a time."
While passing through territory where Indian attacks were likely, most thorough precautions were taken. Corraling live stock at night was one of the time-honored chores for the safe guarding of live stock. Capt. Howard Stansburg, setting out from Fort Leavenworth for Salt Lake City, in June 1852, describes corraling which he had seen for the first time. "The wagons were drawn up in the form of a circle and chained together, leaving a small opening at one place, through which the cattle were driven into the inclosed space at night, and guarded. The arrangement is an excellent one, and rendered impossible what is called a ‘stampede’—a mode of assault practiced by Indians for the purpose of carrying off cattle or horses, in which, if possible, they let loose some of the animals and so frightened the rest as to produce a general confused flight of the whole. To a few determined men, wagons thus arranged for a breastwork, made them exceedingly difficult to be carried by any force of undisciplined savages."
Ox-drawn wagons made slow progress across the plains making a speed of about two miles an hour. On days when everything went right, they made 20 miles. Contrast this with modern trucks on paved highways, hauling loads of two tons or so, and making from 35 to 40 miles an hour.
With the opening of Kansas and Nebraska and the increased traffic westward, a brief mention of the new towns and settlements which sprang up along the route in Kansas might be interesting.Military Road Through Kennekuk
The highway from Fort Leavenworth bore to the westward over a portion of what was later known as the Fort Leavenworth-Fort Riley road, to a point known as the "Eight Mile House," a popular early day inn and tavern, which stood a short distance southeast of the present village of Lowemont, Leavenworth County. Here the road branched off sharply to the northwest, while the Fort Riley road veered to the southwest, towards present Easton. The north branch entered Atchison County a few miles farther on. Among noted stopping’ places along the road in the Salt Creek valley, Leavenworth County, were taverns and hotels kept by Merrill Smith; Isaac Cody, father of Buffalo Bill; and H. P. Rively; besides the Eight Mile House operated by Dave Kelsey.
Entering Atchison County the military road continued on to a point a few miles west of Atchison known as "Mormon Grove," which had been a popular camping place for Mormons who were journeying west; thence on in the same direction through present Huron and on to Kennekuk, where the road from St. Joseph intersected it. The road from St. Joseph was known as the St. Joseph emigrant road. The Pony Express also traveled this road.The Famous Pony Express
This enterprise was established in 1860 by the freighting firm of Russell, Majors and Waddell, Wm. H. Russell being president. Its mission ws to carry letters and dispatches from the Missouri river to California within the shortest practicable time, estimating the distance between the Missouri River and Salt Lake City could be covered in ten days, and from there to the Pacific coast in another five days.
The first trip westward from St. Joseph to Sacramento was made in nine days and 23 hours, while it took 11 days and 12 hours to complete the initial trip eastward. By the "pony" route the time previously required for letters between New York and San Francisco was reduced to 13 days, formerly requiring nearly a month. Nearly 500 saddle horses were purchased and used in the enterprise; 190 stations had to be maintained, and a force of about 200 men employed as station keepers and attendants, in addition to about 80 riders.
Among the more noted of these were Alex Carlylee and Johnny Frey, each credited with being the first rider out of St. Joseph, and Harry Roff, the first rider starting east from the Pacific Coast. Wm. F. Cody (Buffalo Bill) was also one of the riders, on one occasion covering one of the longest "runs" ever made on the line, 320 miles in all, at one time, while another rider Robert Haslam ("Pony Bob") in 1860 covered 380 miles. These rides were necessitated on account of the death of riders who should have relieved them. Riders rode night and day, covering about 200 miles a day.
The Pony Express charges originally were $5 an ounce for letters, and the riders were limited